Tall fescue  should be overseeded every year for thicker sod formation and to repair thinning areas. Heat stress, insect damage, diseases, or other factors play a role in the lawn becoming thinner over the course of the year. Overseeding also allows the homeowner to add newer, better varieties at this time that may help toward curing or abating the problem. 

TALL FESCUES Coronado Gold Endeavor EnviroBLEND EnviroSHADE EnviroBLUE Justice Kentucky 31 Matador (Dwarf) Mow Less Olympic Gold Penn 1901 Pure Gold GT Rebel Exeda Rebel Supreme Signature Signia The Rebels Tomahawk GT

Newer varieties are always being developed ... And overseeding with the newer varieties, gives added genetic adaptation strength, thus improving the existing grass stand.  Different varieties of the same species variety can be mixed and often a blend of varieties proscribed for your area will improve the lawns performance.  To overseed mow the lawn as close as the variety allows, rake to remove all excess debris, apply a fertilizer for newly starting seed beds and seed at the rate of 2-3 LB (this depends upon the thinning of the lawn) per 1000 Sq.Ft.

Water to keep moist for 2-3 weeks until the seedlings are established. When properly managed and maintained a tall fescue lawn can provide a green lawn all year round.

FERTILIZATION: Tall fescue does well on moderate fertility soils but grows best when additional fertilizer is added. The best application is 2 1/2 to 3 pounds of nitrogen per 1000 square feet a YEAR in divided increments. Fall is the best time to add the highest division of the nitrogen and summer is the least best time to fertilize a cool season grass. Do not encourage growth at the hottest time of the year to cut down on disease and insect infestation. Especially in the southern part of the transitional area.

Mowing maintenance requirements for warmer areas include not mowing   under 1-½ inches to keep the sod  from drying out from the heat and losing too much moisture. Look for pest damage at the time of mowing. This is an easy time to remember and inspect the lawn will mowing to notice changes in color, health and density.

For a more comprehensive Tall Fescue Maintenance Calendar visit TurfFiles

Creeping Red Fescue:

Watering: Creeping red fescue are predominately grown in the shadier areas and need water only when the ground in very dry. Over watering red fescue can lead  fungal diseases that are prevalent in hot, humid climates. Water only infrequently. Maintenance: The mowing height of red fescue is lower than the other fescues and can be kept at the height of 1-2 inches depending upon which grass the red fescue has been added.. Fertilizing only when the grass needs it and water infrequently.  Boreal Creeping Red Flyer Creeping Red Camilla Creeping Red Shademaster Creeping Red Florentine Creeping Red

Fertilization: Red fescue is a low fertility grass and fertilize only when the grass needs the added benefit.. This is a cool season grass so follow instructions for fertilizing these grasses. Do not fertilize during the hottest times of the year. Over fertilization will actually keep red fescue from competing with the companion grass because the other grass variety will take over.

HARD FESCUE is the hardiest of the fescues. Since it is more drought tolerant this fescue may need less water but should also be watered deeply and not often. Hard fescue can be grown alone or preferably in mixes with bluegrass or ryes. And when seeded with these lawn varieties mow from 1 to 1 1/2 inches. When grown in a pure stand mow at 1-2 ½ inches infrequently to keep the lawn as drought resistant as possible.   Aurora Gold Hard Fescue Discovery Hard Fescue

FERTILIZER
Fertilize hard fescue the low end to retain growth and can be apply at the rate of: ¼ to ½ lb. Per 1000 sq. ft. per growing  month. Not during the heat of the summer. Fertilize for cool season grasses.

Red Rescue Diseases that red fescue are most plagued with are dollar spot, fusarium patch, red thread, typhus blight and powdery mildew.        

Grass Deficiency Symptoms:

Nitrogen - Older leaves turn yellow green and little new growth is noticed.
Potassium - Leaf tips and edges looked burned.
Phosphorus - Foliage will change from dark green to reddish in hue.
Magnesium - Foliage will appear yellowish green with red tinted edges.
Calcium - New leaves will be small and grass will be rust colored.
Sulfur - Fully-grown leaves turn yellow.
Iron - The new grass will turn yellow.
Manganese - The new grass turns yellow.
Zinc - Grass leaves will appear shriveling, narrow bladed and smaller than usual.
Boron - Yellowed grassing and immature growth.
Molybdenum - Fully grown and mature grass appears gray-green.

The secret to partly eliminating any one of these problems from occurring is of course in the first step with a soil sample and improving the soil at that time of seedbed preparation. Feeding the lawn on a regular maintenance schedule as prescribed by the product information will probably result in not having any of these problems crop up in your lawn.

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